Norway in September: what our fjords trip was really like
We had misty mountains, golden trees, rainy evenings in the van and a few moments where the sun came out and everything looked completely unreal. September gave us a bit of everything. It also meant changing plans, finding some places closed and realising that our mountain layers weren't quite up to the job.
Our campervan booking ran from 17 to 27 September 2026. We had lovely clear spells, low cloud, rain and much colder conditions up on the mountains. The autumn colours around Rondane were a completely different side of Norway from the fjord villages.
What September felt like on our route
I loved having variety, but I wouldn't plan September as if every day will deliver the photograph you have saved. Some of our favourite moments were simple campsite evenings and bakery stops. Those still worked when a mountain view disappeared into the cloud.
Seasonal closures were already part of the trip
Fjærland is a good example. We were excited for the book town, but some shops had already closed for the season. There were still honesty shelves and a lovely village to wander through, so the stop wasn't wasted. If the bookshops are the main reason for your visit, check opening dates before deciding when to go.
Do the same with campsites and activities. A business being listed on a map doesn't mean it will be open for your September dates. Check arrival arrangements as well as the last opening day, especially if you expect to reach a campsite after a long drive.
Keep the mountain days flexible
Bitihorn was beautiful, but the wind and cold were a strong reminder that the temperature beside the van isn't the temperature on the summit. Warmer layers and gloves would have made that walk more comfortable. Our recorded time is our own experience, not a target for someone else's walk.
We didn't hike Besseggen or Trolltunga. Having a famous name on the map wasn't enough reason to force it into the trip. Keep a lower-effort alternative ready, whether that's a village, a café or getting to your next campsite with time to enjoy it.
A warm van helped
Posty's heater, cooking setup and fridge made the rainy parts of the trip easier. We could make dinner and spend an evening inside rather than having to find somewhere else to sit. That matters when comparing a rental: ask how the heating operates and what power or fuel it needs.
We used paid campsites most nights. Facilities were useful after wet days, and a practical overnight stop could be more valuable than another scenic detour. Plan groceries around the space you actually have in the van rather than assuming you can stock up for the whole trip at once.
Would I choose September again?
For autumn scenery and this kind of flexible road trip, September gave us a lot to love. I would go with warmer walking layers, more attention to seasonal opening dates and space to change a day. I wouldn't choose it on the promise of empty roads or guaranteed access to a particular mountain route.
Check the official Geiranger–Trollstigen route page and current traffic information before driving. Seasonal roads can close, and past opening dates don't establish what will happen in another year. Build the trip around the conditions you find, not a rigid sequence you feel obliged to finish.
Plan the rest of your Norway trip
Get our Norway Fjords guide for the web guide, downloadable PDF, place map and editable itinerary. Read these next:
Watch our Norway road trip
Watch our Norway road trip on YouTube, 68m46s. It is also our latest public full-length upload at publication. Visit Ellen’s YouTube channel.
Frequently asked questions
Was September warm on the mountains?
We found Bitihorn cold and windy despite a lovely-looking day. Bring suitable layers and check the forecast for your route.
Were all the bookshops open?
Some Fjærland bookshops had closed for the season during our visit. Check opening dates if that is your main reason to go.
