Buenos Aires, the city we fell for

Steak, cafes, vintage & a La Boca game

We spent almost a month in Buenos Aires and completely fell in love with it. This is everything we'd tell a friend before they went: where to stay in Palermo and the difference between Soho and Hollywood, the steak restaurants worth going out of your way for, the cafes we went back to again and again, the best vintage shopping in the city, and the experiences that made the trip, from the most electric football game of our lives to a tango show. It works whether you have five days or a month.

What's in the guide

• Where to stay. Palermo Soho vs Hollywood, plus both apartments we actually booked.
• Where to eat. Hierro, La Cabrera, Chori, Osteria Fantastico, Guerrin and Napoles.
• An asado experience. How we ended up at a real local family asado, and how you can do it too.
• The cafes. Stain Coffee (our favourite in the world), Casa Dingo, Laban, La Biela and Atis.
• Ice cream. The two spots worth every bit of the hype.
• Things to do. A La Boca game, Caminito, Recoleta Cemetery, El Ateneo and a tango show.
• Vintage shopping. The San Telmo Sunday markets and the best spots to browse.
• Staying a while. The gyms and everyday spots for a longer stay.
• Good to know. Getting around, money and cards, the eSIM we used, and how safe it actually felt.
• La Boca tickets. Exactly how we got ours, and how you can too.

What's inside

• Every spot with a clickable Google Maps link in the interactive Notion guide
• Both apartments we stayed in, with links
• Our favourite restaurants, cafes and ice cream, by name
• A dedicated vintage shopping section
• How we got La Boca game tickets
• Getting around, money, safety and the eSIM we used
• More places we pinned across the city
• Lifetime updates

New to the city? Read our free honest take on whether Buenos Aires is worth visiting first.

A glimpse inside