Read more:

Is Sri Lanka Worth Visiting? My Honest Answer After a Month There

Sun setting over the ocean through coconut palms on the south coast of Sri Lanka

I almost did not write this one, because I know how it is going to sound.

We spent a month in Sri Lanka in 2025 and I have not shut up about it since. Every time someone asks me where they should go next, I say Sri Lanka, and I can hear myself doing the thing where you oversell a place so hard that people stop believing you. So I want to do this properly. Not the highlight reel, the actual answer, including the parts that annoyed me.

Outrigger fishing boats silhouetted against a pink sunset off the south coast of Sri Lanka
The sunsets are the first thing everybody mentions, and they are right

Is Sri Lanka Worth Visiting? My Quick Answer

Yes, and it is not close. Sri Lanka is one of my three favourite countries out of everywhere we have been on this trip, and I would go back tomorrow!

What makes it worth it is not one big thing. It is that the beaches, the food, the wildlife and the prices are all good at the same time, in a country small enough that you can drive between two completely different worlds in a morning. We saw baby turtles hatch, watched a sloth bear yawn from about ten metres away, and ate better than we have almost anywhere, all in the same fortnight!

How long we stayed28 nights25 March to 22 April 2025
Where we wentThe south coastPlus two nights on safari at Yala
Would I go backAlready planning itFor the parts we missed

The honest caveat is that we only saw one part of the country, and I will be upfront about that throughout. We never made it to Ella, Kandy or the hill country, and I am not going to pretend otherwise.

Seven Reasons Sri Lanka Is Worth Visiting

I made a video about this that I framed as reasons I would never go back, which was my way of saying the opposite. Here they are properly.

1. The sunsets will ruin most others for you

I am not being dramatic. We watched the sun go down over the water most evenings for a month and I never once got bored of it! The fishermen go out in outrigger canoes right as the light goes, and you get these silhouettes on flat gold water that look staged.

2. The people are genuinely, disarmingly kind

This is the thing I keep coming back to. Not service-industry friendly, actually kind. At one cafe in Hikkaduwa we went so many times over two weeks that the staff learned our names, and when it was Daniel's birthday they brought out a cake we had not ordered and had not mentioned!

3. The beaches are ridiculous

We based ourselves in four different beach towns and each one had a completely different personality. One horseshoe bay, one long surf beach, one quiet stretch where we barely saw anyone. I have gone through all of them properly in our guide to the best beaches on the south coast.

Turquoise bay backed by a jungle headland covered in palm trees on the south coast of Sri Lanka
Every bay down here has a headland like this one

4. The wildlife is the real thing, not a zoo

Twice while we were there, baby turtles hatched on the beach in front of us. Once I was mid-burger at lunch and I put it down so fast! Watching something the size of your palm make its first ever run at the ocean does something to you.

Then there is Yala. We did a two night safari camp and across two game drives we saw elephants, a leopard asleep on a rock, peacocks showing off, and a sloth bear, which our guide told us is one of the rarest things you can see in the park.

Ellen smiling in a safari jeep with an elephant standing close behind at Yala, Sri Lanka
This was about as close as I would like to get, thanks

5. The food, and the sheer number of options

You can have a proper Sri Lankan curry cooked in front of you for a few dollars, or a poke bowl, or the best gelato I have had anywhere, sometimes within the same block. I did not expect the range. I have listed every place we actually ate in the southern Sri Lanka food guide.

6. There is far too much to do

Surf lessons, jungle parties, sunrise missions, safari, snorkelling, saunas, whale season if you time it. We were there a month and left with a list. Everything we actually did is here.

7. You will get withdrawals

I still think about it! That is the honest seventh reason.

What I Loved About Sri Lanka

Hiriketiya. I went in assuming Weligama would be my favourite and Hiriketiya beat it comfortably. I rated it 10000/10, which is not a real number, and I stand by it!

How easy it is to get around on two wheels. We hired a moped and it cost us about six dollars a day. Having your own wheels down here changes the trip completely.

The jungle parties. We went to two, one in Weligama and one in Hiriketiya. The Hiriketiya one had far better music, and there is nothing better than being at an event where you can actually sing along!

Almost no language barrier. Nearly everyone we met spoke good English, which took a lot of friction out of the everyday stuff.

What I Didn't Love About Sri Lanka

I said I would be honest, so here it is.

There is no sense of urgency. None. I am not exaggerating. You will sit down at a restaurant and your food and your drinks will take a long time to arrive. Everything is slow, and I mean everything. Once you accept it, it is fine. If you are on a short trip and trying to pack a day, it will get to you.

The driving. I am not going to be polite about this. We did not get in a single car where I thought the driver was good. It is just different here, and you get used to it, but it was the one thing that made me tense.

The ATMs frequently do not work. This caught us out more than once. On the day we left Weligama we tried three machines before one worked, and we needed the cash to pay for our mopeds. Take out more than you think you need every time you find a working one, and bring a card that does not punish you for it. I use the Wise card for exactly this reason.

Weligama's main beach is not the nicest, in our opinion. It is a brilliant place to learn to surf and the town is great. The beach itself is not the one you have seen on Pinterest.

Is Sri Lanka Expensive?

Short version: no, and we still managed to spend more than most guides say you will.

Sri Lanka is genuinely cheap. Where our money went was food, because we worked out of beach cafes most days and ate almost every meal out. Our food and drink came to more per day than our accommodation did, which surprised me when I added it up.

I have broken down all 74 of our transactions, with what everything actually cost, in our full Sri Lanka cost breakdown.

Where We Stayed, and What It Cost

We moved between five bases in 28 nights. Here is how they ranked for me.

Scroll to see the full table →

Where Nights My rating Why
Hiriketiya 2 10000/10 Best vibe anywhere on the coast
Yala 2 10/10 Purely for the safari, which was incredible
Weligama 8 9/10 Best base if you are working
Hikkaduwa 14 8/10 Best sunsets, very quiet

If we went back tomorrow, these are the four we would book, one for each base. Prices move a lot on this coast, so it is worth checking your dates.

Hiriketiya, my favourite

Salt House

Hiriketiya. We ate breakfast here and it was one of the best meals of the trip. Get the tropical smoothie.

Salt House, Sri Lanka
Weligama, best first-trip base

Silvas Surf Home

Weligama. A surf town first, and staying somewhere set up for it makes the mornings much easier.

Silvas Surf Home, Sri Lanka
Hikkaduwa, the beach cafe you can sleep at

Amaroo Hikkaduwa

Hikkaduwa. Our favourite cafe in Sri Lanka turned out to be somewhere you can sleep. On the beach, and set up for working.

Amaroo Hikkaduwa, Sri Lanka
Yala, for the safari

Big Game Yala by Eco Team

Yala. Tented rooms on the edge of the park, with two game drives and every meal included. Where we stayed.

Big Game Yala by Eco Team, Sri Lanka

The place we stayed longest is not the one I would send you to first, which tells you something about how much we underestimated the far south. Full breakdown of every stay, with prices, in where to stay on the south coast.

Who Sri Lanka Is Not For

I do not think this is a country for everyone, and I would rather say so.

If you want everything to run on time, you will find it frustrating. If you want big nightlife, the south coast is quiet outside a couple of party nights. And if you are only coming for a week, you will spend a lot of that week in a car, because things are much further apart than they look on a map. That is exactly why we missed Ella.

Wooden chairs and tables set out on the sand facing the sea at a beach cafe in southern Sri Lanka
The standard setup on this coast. Chairs on the sand, food when it comes

FAQs About Visiting Sri Lanka

How many days do you need in Sri Lanka?

We had 28 and only saw one coast. For a first trip I would give it two weeks minimum, and I have set out how I would split those days in our south coast itinerary.

Is Sri Lanka safe?

We never felt unsafe, at any point, in a month. The thing I would actually flag is the roads rather than anything else.

Do you need cash in Sri Lanka?

Yes, and more than you would expect. Plenty of smaller places are cash only, including one of our favourite spots in Hikkaduwa. Get cash out whenever you find a machine that works.

Do you need a scooter licence in Sri Lanka?

If you plan to hire a scooter or a tuk tuk, make sure you have a physical international licence with you. Do not leave this until you arrive.

Is Sri Lanka good for beginner surfers?

It is one of the best places I have seen for it. I had a few people message me asking this, and from what we saw, pretty much every town on this coast has gentle beginner waves and somewhere offering lessons.

What did you miss?

Ella, Kandy, Sigiriya and the whole hill country. We came for the coast, loved the coast, and never left it. That is genuinely my only regret about the trip.

Final Thoughts: Is Sri Lanka Worth Visiting?

Yes. It is one of my favourite countries I have ever been to, and the month we spent there is the month I bring up most.

It is slow, the driving is chaotic and the ATMs will test you. None of that came close to outweighing the rest of it. If you have been thinking about Sri Lanka, stop thinking about it. Just give yourself longer than you think you need, because the hardest part is leaving!

Want your Sri Lanka itinerary planned in a couple of clicks?

Pick your towns, and it lays the days out from everywhere we actually went.

  • Two lengths, five to seven days or the full fortnight
  • Only places we actually went, never a generic list
  • Every drive between the towns worked out for you
  • Share it to your notes or send it to whoever you are travelling with
Take me there

More travel diaries

View all